Fall 2005 Mengyang Guoyan LBZ from Yunnan Sourcing US |
A puerh tea
lover is fortunate when information on a tea is available on the Half-Dipper’s
blog. While I very much enjoy Hobbes’ photos, poems and creative prose, I find
more valuable still the careful notes made on each tea. With the 2005 Guoyan
cake on my mind, I remembered the initial post of his Montana trip many years
ago with the Americana kitsch photos, but not the painstaking effort of updates
on this single tea. When I see nearly ten years of notated updates, dear tea
friends, I am so moved and touched by this. How many of us take the time to
check our teas, re-brew them and then make notes over the years? If a person
loves the old monographs of the Royal Geographical Society, think about what a
revelation it would be to view the old field notes from the explorers before
they wrote the final monograph. Yet this is what we have in the Half-Dipper.
I must thank
Mr. Hobbes for his gift of detailed note-taking to the puerh tea community. No
one else is as dedicated to tea over time as this writer. And it was his years
of notes and subsequent re-purchases of the 2005 tea in question that settled
my decision to jump on it for a sale price. I’m fairly certain the Half-Dipper
paid far, far less for the tea starting back in 2008 than I paid recently. Mengyang Guoyan was something of a budget tea at the time. But
with today’s prices, I think Yunnan Sourcing is selling very low.
One must take
care when purchasing a tea labeled Mengyang Guoyan Cha Chang 勐養國艷茶廠 and I suggest heading over to
Babelcarp and acquiring all the possible Mengyang Guoyan spellings before you
search on the net or on Taobao. Fakes abound, and this tea uses the second
possible spelling used by the company, the one I have just above. I got very different results trying all
the spellings on Taobao. I ask that if you look for this tea, please compare
the wrappers carefully.
The wrapper itself is important in distinguishing this tea from
possible faking. According to Yunnan Sourcing, the tea was made for a private
sale to a Kunming dealer and was never sold by the factory publicly. Apparently,
a spring tea version existed at one time. For all I know perhaps some will crop
up. But I noticed a few things about this production on the wrapper.
First off, the wrapper is thin with no date stamp. The back had many crimp folds and a twist on mine, but that is not necessarily unique. Some key
things to look for on this thin wrapper include the Te Ji red stamp, which must be located on the
left side of the design, not located on the bottom nor anywhere else. Next, the
tea leaf in the design must point between two specific characters on the top of
the wrapper. Finally, there is what appears to be a hand drawn stylized
character in green ink. This character does vary between cakes, and mine has
some heavy ink on parts of lines which makes me conclude this is hand drawn, so
it indeed may vary somewhat. But the presence of varied and uneven ink on the
lines of the drawn character will distinguish it from a computer printing. Here
is my photo again, and I drew in where to look.
Teji red stamp on left is key on this private production. Also note the direction of the leaf and the possibly hand drawn character on the left. |
Any Mengyang
Guoyan cake should at the very least have the leaf angled correctly, though
details in wrappers from other years may vary.
I compared my
cake with the one in the Yunnan Sourcing photo, and with Hobbes’ tea and
concluded that all three are similar with the key marks mentioned above, but
with slight differences in placement of the red stamp and slight differences in
the hand drawn green character. Yet the Taobao cake I found for about $72 did
not share the proper characteristics and had a red stamp on the bottom of the
design. Also, the Taobao cake looks much less oily, and the tea
itself on top and bottom appears less consistent though this might be arguable.
Of course one wants to think we have the genuine goods. With Yunnan Sourcing, I
do not question this very often, but of course we all want to know if we can
get a good price.
Long, oily leaves. |
Long leaves easy to carefully pry off by hand. |
Two leaves and one bud tea. |
He said, “Not
sure you are referring to all my teas…”
I tipsily
replied, “Yes I’m referring to all your teas.”
I have had at
least five cakes recently that I thought were under-priced. Easily that means
his other ten thousand teas are under-priced too. Or so I thought while under the
influence, a time when statistical concepts like large representative samples
and random sampling etc. mean shite. Truth is happily much more relative when
tea drunk than at any other time. (I swear I am committed to conservative
objective truth and go to bed with Hume every single night when not drinking.) Mr.
Yunnan Sourcing said something along the lines that he tries to keep his prices
as low as possible because he is aware his loyal buyers are the ones who keep his unique business afloat, etc. etc. Remarkable that the man continues to
politely and rationally reply year after year to tea- inebriated people like me.
Early light steep. |
Check your strainer for char bits on any tea. This one has a few black specks, not many. |
The tea settles
into a peppery floral honey after about eight steeps, and benefits from several
hours rest every two steepings or so. Many aged teas are like this, they seem
to fade but then with a few hours rest, or even overnight, they have quite a
bit more to give. I’m still holding those 1960s leaves that are mostly steeped
out from a session two years ago. Every six months I fire up the kettle and
give those leaves a couple more steeps to squeak out a bit more tea brew. Even
when faint, I can taste the flavor of the old tea. Then I dry them out again
and let them rest for another six months. Not every day will I get an old tea
like that to brew out. One reason some old teas may rest and give is because
the leaves are very sturdy and get a bit leathery, more like tree bark. As a
good puerh ages, the juices go and leave behind a concentrate and very firm
material, so unless you want to boil out the leaves in a pan in one go, they can
continue to leech flavor for some time.
Exceptional quality of the two leaf-one bud picking. |
Of course the
tea is still plenty olive green because of the dry storage and I am not sure
that years ago I would have liked this tea as much as I do now. The slow
storage has preserved the main qualities in the taste, so I can really appreciate
what good dry storage does. The tea is much more comfortable than it probably
was some years ago, and the deeper spicy autumn flavors are coming to the
foreground without loss of the higher notes.
Steep twelve. Still darker than the early steep above. |
Steep 13, not gonna toss this yet! |
Judge not lest ye be judged, so sayeth the tea drunks of the world. You know I bought a bamboo cage of 12 tongs (30kg) of this tea in 2007 and then carried it on my back home from the tea market. About 1.5 kilometers and 5 flights of stairs. It cost me a pretty penny and I was not about to let someone else deliver it. I once had a case of very expensive tea stolen by a taxi. I had one case in the trunk and another case in the front seat. I got out to get the one in the front seat, took it out, closed the front door and he sped off with the other case in the back. 9000 RMB of tea. I was beside myself with rage!!!
ReplyDeleteAre you saying my judgement was impaired?
DeleteThe price back then...well, that's like nothing compared to what you probably pay nowadays for many teas? And you still carry 12 tongs on your back too! Or is my judgement still impaired? ;)
At the time (10 years ago) 9000 RMB was an insane amount of money for a case of tea, but it was a 2002 Lancang Gu Cha production. There is an older woman who works the tea market circuit and makes our deliveries with her mianbaoche (chinese minivan) who (although being a terrible) driver is totally trustworthy. I made the mistake of letting her drive me to the airport once. Of course your judgement is impaired and so is mine, that's part of the deal. Lose touch with one reality to make gains in another.
DeleteFun fact: I purchased this tea for $46 eight years ago. Yes, the prices on tea increases pretty much (but not as much in this particular one as, for example Xi Zhi Hao teas, so it's still a bargain)
ReplyDeleteI think I saw $48 somewhere too, maybe a later Half-Dipper post. I bet you are glad to have it now :)
DeleteWow is Wisconsinites must think alike...I as well took advantage of Scott's afformentioned sale and picked up a cake of this. Agree that Hobbes and other blogs were huge in giving me the confidence to pull the trigger. Very happy I did! Thanks for keeping your prices low Scott! No way a broke college student(and tea Addict) like me would've been able to enjoy amazingly high quality tea on a regular basis if not for u!!
ReplyDelete*us
DeleteCheers for a comfortable winter to look forward to...now if it would only stop raining!
DeleteWelcome... that's my mission. So... mission accomplished!
DeleteThe tea is now sold out on Yunnan Sourcing. Any of you with stored cakes to sell are now in a good position.
ReplyDeleteWow...the blogger effect is real! So happy I picked one up when I did.
DeleteI think there were only a dozen or so of these available.
DeleteThanks to Cwyn for this post. I have two bings (bought at YS in 2011 for USD 64 a piece). I will break the first one this weekend. I will compare my notes with Cwyn and Hobbes thereafter.
ReplyDelete