I don't like the word collecting. For one, collecting puerh tea has a whole subculture of people looking to buy teas which appreciate in value over time, and the purchases are quite deliberately chosen toward that goal. Puerh banking instead of a savings account and/or blogging for pennies of accumulated interest. We have access to so much puerh tea nowadays, and factories geared to large productions of fairly stable and repetitive recipes gutted the value of puerh tea collected over time. No new puerh teas exist nowadays priced for any type of value collecting. Collector value is one part production buzz year, and one part you saved something that no one else has, and that tea miraculously doesn't smell like your sock drawer, or maybe it does but people like the taste of your socks.
I feel rewarded by my tea in the context of building or having built up a home pantry. A home pantry is the comfy, slow living side of life. In my family I grew up watching and enjoying food preservation, canning and fermentation. Sometimes in the evening I opened the laundry room cupboards of my dad's house to look at the jars of Canadian salmon, pickled cucumbers, homegrown horseradish, vats of molding sauerkraut, and pickled hot peppers. We had a specially dedicated refrigerator for TUBS of pickled fish (2 gallon buckets with lids). Here we had finger-sized fish filets, small fish like crappies, and also Lake Superior white fish brining away with onions, large peppercorns, cloves, cardemom and allspice berries (Jamaica berry). We had 1 gallon buckets of aged parmesan that smelled like vomit and the smell knocked me back when dad opened them up. Today I long for parmesan that smells like anything at all.
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| The last of a jar of dahongpao that was super smoky but after 10 years is plummy perfection. |
My mother knew how to can food, but she was a city girl and not really interested in home-making. So, I learned about well-stocked food pantries as an extension of my father. His husbandry included all forms of planting, hunting and gathering. The difference between my parents is my father grew up starving and never could let a spring go by without planting something. He never went to a grocery store for things like meat or milk, he acquired these locally from farms. I cannot ever recall a moment of seeing my father at a grocery except to buy beer and nightcrawlers.
Next we have the dry side of a pantry which consists of spices, tea, and various items you buy once in a decade or more. I have things that my parents did not and are only possible to acquire in recent generations. I age my own miso, for example. I have dried peppers from New Mexico. My mushrooms are dried shitaakes and dried morels, although my father took us morel hunting and they are native to my area forests. I buy homemade cucumber kimchi and let it liquify to a burning sludge, a spoonful of the liquid soothes that pinched tummy spot from GLP-1 shots I take for the diabetes I got from mom. Recently I discovered the joy of liquified chipotle pepper stored for 5+ years. I started collecting bitters with the idea of crafting beverages with my own sparkling tonic water. I have a bucket of intense cocoa powder that is impossible to find now. My sister taught me cooking with preserved lemons.
I married a copy of my mom rather than my father.
"You have no room in the fridge," Mr. Guangzhou stated after his nightmare return from China where everything is better than here. "You have stuff in there that looks like 20 years old and needs throwing out."
"Don't you touch my miso!"
He doesn't know anything about a pantry. His life is 100% eating out, and I get it, that in countries and cities where someone on the street cooks better than almost anyone else can, eating out is tastier and economical. But it's not me, and not rural, like here where we live.
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| Not everyone took the opportunity to put their tea tits into a personalized Yiwu beeng from Bitterleaf. |
I watch Mr. G. run out to look for things I actually already have. What is he gonna do when the supply side fails? Because it always does. I can't get cocoa so good as what I have, not at a price I can afford. Thirty years ago I got those 4 lbs for $20, a special order from the food co-op I belonged to, a special order for someone who failed to pick it up and a worker I know offered it to me cheap. Never in a million years will that happen again! Herodotus said thousands of years ago that riches don't remain in one place for long!
Puerh tea also ends up a special collection of opportunistic buys that I can never repeat. I can lament I didn't buy more, but maybe I couldn't afford more, or didn't think a tea particularly nice, or I added it on a shipping threshold. But, like the cocoa, I got a one-time happy find that won't return, won't come round again.
One aspect of my tea pantry that makes me happy is the sheer variety of teas and herbs. My son likes a cup of puerh now and then, but mostly I am the person enjoying puerh. When people here want tea, they are looking for whatever they drank before and consider tea.
People are easy to pick tea for. You can spot their level with a few quick questions, the first is "what is your favorite country for tea?" If they say India or England, you know you are probably dealing with a tea bagger and can serve accordingly. Why waste anything good on them, puerh won't meet their expectations and even some decent loose leaf will get them feeling defensive. The only answer is China or maybe Taiwan, and then I can probe more to learn what teas they have had before. Japan, ok but dodgy if they say matcha and can't tell me where they order it online, or it turns out they order at a drive thru.
Truth is, I probably have something in my cupboard for literally anyone. I have my puerh teas, but also all kinds of hand-processed beautiful teas, rolled oolong of course, aged shui xians, spindly long-leaf reds, powdered bug poop, bamboo-stuffed shou, wrapped liu bao. I have jars and pots of things I forgot to label, mystery teas that are a joy to discover all over again. To be honest, the tongs hold up the sofa and sometimes the big crock is too much trouble to dig through. I am glad now I ditched the plastic everything except the plastic bags I need a solution for. Aesthetics, but maybe more healthy? I am even discovering that sample baggies I normally won't open for myself are a godsend when someone comes by and their answer to my "what" tea question includes a grocery store.
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| homemade batch shou puerh |
Got icky belly, I have mint herbs, menstrual herbs and the teas to drink instead of coffee. But I also bought a Rocco drinks fridge for some of the sparkling herb beverages and vitamin beverages my son likes. I put in my wormwood German absinthe bottles. I usually have a couple choices of coffee and of course my top shelf cocoa if someone starts bragging on hot chocolate. You can laugh, but I bought three bottles of As Ever rose' from the Duchess of Sussex who reminds me of my self-obsessed mother. It's very sour-tasting, but admittedly I know almost nothing about wines.
The point is, the joy of homemaking and/or husbandry is providing my family with flavors and tastes that bring joy and good health. To discover with surprise that the tea that I bought on a whim turns into a favorite, or soothes the hurt feelings, the high gas prices, the worries, the wars, bad sex, no sex, the death of a loved one, and deadly bugs out to kill us. I can put you in a coma and do what I like with your corpus.
A well-stocked pantry is a haven in an unstable world. The whole point of hunting and gathering is never to feel that hunger or thirst and come up empty. Learning the gratitude that comes of any bounty, of any stability and good health we can create and maybe pass on the good along with the bad. I may not have laying hens, but when eggs go up in price like they did, or my cat needs expensive x-rays, then I have things to trade.
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| Not necessary, but nice! |
I am glad to have teas that are aged, mid aged and teas I want to keep forever young. For me, essential dark teas include large factory, but also small batch boutiques. I think brick teas are a must. So are aged factory teas, and I think 10-year+ aged shou is a safe bet for anyone on a few meds. Liu bao is nice for a followup to steak or a pork stir fry. Green teas are cooling on a hot day. Teas made into little cubes or balls are handy to toss in a tea pot before sitting down to write. I have roots and things for female troubles, or puerhs to bring on nice sexy dreams. Aged whites for people who don't like much caffeine. Smoky tuos go well with a bland baked tilapia. Spent lapsang leaves make a rub for pork butt and chicken legs.
Whatever tea you have forms the pantry for when life and death hit me hard as they have. In a world that seems so unstable, apart from a flood I feel a little more confident that I have everything I need and riches beyond that. I am grateful to the tea friends who helped me along the way with a heads up at key moments when a one-time deal came by. I hope you dear readers enjoy your pantry as much as I enjoy mine.
Cwynnnnn

































