What defines my living space. |
In a general sense, collectors as a whole spend time acquiring
and preserving a collection of items. Collecting is a distinct activity from
hoarding, which a survival type of activity viewed negatively in the
mainstream collecting. As opposed to hoarding, the collector goes after specific items
with a set of criteria which define the collector’s taste and discerning eye. Or
in our case, discerning mouth feel, and body feel. All this is where
commonality with other collectors starts and stops because puerh drinkers and
collectors have one aspect of the hobby to deal with that no one else has,
which is the development and aging of a raw, unfinished product.
We collectors share in the act of drinking our collection
with other beverage collectors. We can discuss nuances in flavor. In our
situation, the body effect is a factor in judging the aesthetic qualities of
the tea. Other beverage people do not discuss body feel because a true taster
in wine or whiskey will spit to remove the euphoric effect of the alcohol when
judging the merits of the beverage. I can set aside body effect as merely an
aspect of a tea, but not necessarily the most important single trait to seek
out. But I cannot set aside the Art and Science of Fermentation. Unlike every
other collector, Puerh Tea Collectors have a maintenance requirement that goes
beyond mere preservation. We are collecting a raw, unfinished product in the
case of sheng puerh which is not in its ideal finished form when we acquire it.
Even shou puerh is not technically finished. More than this, we are collecting
a living product. Puerh Tea is alive.
Like the whiskey or wine drinker, we can, in theory, acquire
a finished puerh tea product at thirty years old and then preserve it in a
similar manner as a bottle of thirty-year old whiskey. I say “in theory”
because no real market exists in which people can buy thirty-year old puerh
unless you get lucky at Sotheby’s or Asian tea auction and have thousands of
dollars to spend. Even if you can afford to buy at this level, we simply have
no more highly aged tea left to buy that is not already in the hands of
collectors. The vast majority of puerh collectors are buying a younger, raw
product that needs development, and so our activity as collectors after buying
is that of fermenting a living product.
A thirty-year journey |
The mere buyer of puerh tea can acquire tea at any age, and
keep it in the bag or wrapper and store it in whatever manner they wish, but
the tea has a high probability of failure to turn into greatness. The serious collector,
however, provides conditions for the tea for its optimal development. The art
and science of fermentation and storage of puerh tea is a difficult task,
reducing the likelihood of failure only by degrees unknown even today. We hope
to reduce failure in our task of storing and fermenting, but we face the
prospect of failure every day in the form of unwanted mold or dryness which
kills the living tea over time.
What other form of food or beverage collecting has a thirty-year
time span? What other beverage has such stringent requirements for storage with
such high prospects for mediocrity or failure? Most beverages are finished when
people buy them. Wine bottles that shatter in the cellar or whiskies that
develop sludge are not the fault of the collector, necessarily. Virtually all
of the work going into wine or whiskey is done by professionals before the
buyer acquires them. Likewise, foods like aged cheese get their aging work done
by professionals before the cheese is ever put up for sale. Puerh success or
failure, on the other hand, is entirely due to the amateur collector today and what
that amateur collector does with the tea.
We don’t have aged wood barrels to help us, we have nothing whatsoever
provided to us except the raw material to guarantee our success. So we must
know just what we taste in this raw material we are given, and in this tasting
the Wine Sommelier failed. I myself tasted what she did, and it is a great raw leaf.
Will it turn into the best aged puerh? If so, then we know an amateur succeeded
because right now 100% of the exact tea she and I tasted is in the hands of amateurs.
I’m tempted to throw out all comparisons to collectors of
beverages and food and compare puerh tea with champion horse rearing. Horse
buyers assess young stallions or mares for their potential, and know the work
involved in turning that young horse into a champion. But unlike puerh tea, horse
buyers then turn over the development to a professional, and that professional
finishes their work in a few short years. In the thirty-year time span needed
for puerh tea, the horse trainer has eight generations done and gone.
Is it done yet? Probably not. |
Puerh tea collectors are different from every other
collector because we have Mold and Bacteria for friends. We commit to decades of
time pondering storage and fermentation. We have a living collection that must develop
and ferment over half a human lifetime. We can discuss tea culture and history,
language, semiotics or collecting as luxury at any point. But at the end of the
day, all this is nothing against the reality of success or failure of puerh tea
fermentation and storage. As for me, I will die before I ever fully appreciate
what’s mine. That’s what makes me different.
Success and failure and such a fine line to dance about with. Takes a while to learn the basics and the rest of your life trying to perfect it. Good write my friend!
ReplyDeleteM
The only other relatively 'in common' collector I can think of is that of wild/sour beer. This type of beer is fermented with wild yeasts and bacteria versus traditional beer yeast strains. It's true the beer is released technically finished after anywhere between a few months to a few years of fermentation and souring, but these beers can develop for years (25+) if stored correctly. Most are duds (American types) which to this date have only existed since it became popular here in the states within this last decade. These tend drop off after a few years but there are exceptions of course. The best candidates for long term aging are those from Belgium that are inoculated with these wild yeasts and bacterias "naturally" via open windows during cooling after boil. The wort is cooled overnight in big, flat containers letting the wild microflora from outside settle in and do its work. As long as there is residual sugar these yeasts and bacterias can continue to change the beer for many more years in the bottle if stored at an adequate temp, going dormant from time to time and picking up later down the time-line.
ReplyDeleteLots of care must be taken when aging these bottles watching out for dried out corks, keeping light away as its a killer, and letting temps fluctuate but not drastically. These beers can be sublime if aged correctly. Not at all like their puckery, young siblings. Although like puerh, some young ones are splendid out of the gate.
I've been a pu-convert for a few years now and it is hands down my favorite beverage. I obsess about it morning, day, and night. I also fear an increase in popularity of our cherished tea, as I've seen what it's done to beer collectors, and most importantly the price of some of these beers. I would hate to be on my toes every spring to get a few cakes in my cart before they all sold out within minutes. That's how the good beer is nowadays, and I've spent many hours myself watching vendor sites to catch a "white whale" before it disappears within 10's of seconds. I'm over that, and shengpu has spread open its loving arms and embraced my tired and weary collectors soul.
What a fine blog, may it stay humble and intriguing as it is now for many years to come, hopefully till those cakes mature into even more story-telling worthiness!
Interesting about the beer. I would feel a bit at the mercy of the bottle and cork. I remember my dad's home made root beer that turned into actual beer first, and then into exploding glass bombs. At least with tea I don't have to worry about my cats.
DeleteYou aren't the first person who has expressed worry to me about puerh becoming more popular. Right now I think the rigors of storage will keep all but the few casual at best.
Beyond the issues of storage, equipment and time are quite prohibitive when it comes to something like puerh becoming popular here in the states. I just don't see a big money business person or a blue collar 60 hour a work week with 4 kids person taking the time to sit down for a 1-2 hour a day gongfu session, at least not on a broad scale, obviously there are some exceptions. It just so much easier to open a bottle of wine or scotch, pour a glass and enjoy. That's not even counting in having to wait for water to boil, we have little patients in this country, rush rush rush! There are other hurdles as well but I think time is really the biggest challenge facing wide spread puerh popularity.
DeleteOn how I feel about it becoming popular: prices would skyrocket (more than they have) but people that got in early and amassed a big collection could be sitting on a gold mine. There would be no shortage of big money collectors willing to shell out piles of cash just to get lbz or yiwu, kind of like what happened over the last 10 to 20 years in China
Hence all the office brewing we see going on. ;)
DeleteBonsai. That's probably the closest comparison. Folks evaluate seedlings for potential and then take decades to train the tree into its ultimate form.
ReplyDelete