In November 2017, I was invited by Matt of mattchasblog to do a
blind tasting of Yunnan Sourcing samples, in the manner of the old Half-Dipper
blog posts where the samples are marked with Greek letters and the teas are
revealed afterward. We were given a deadline of January 15, and I am a few days
late in finishing up. My medications are wrecking my ability to drink puerh on
many days. My gut is okay, not damaged or anything like that, but it is
sensitive and I try to avoid provoking it. So I spread out the tastings and
tried to get as close to the deadline as I could.
I
decided to brew the teas in clay rather than the gaiwan, just for variety among
the bloggers who I assumed would likely choose a porcelain gaiwan. I chose a
light clay tea pot made by Inge Nielsen (Belgium) that I use for young sheng. I
measured 7-8g of tea per 100/ml and ended up using less water than that for
most of the teas, more like 80 ml.
Alpha
Young. Leaves are plump and attractive.
Fruity/floral, pours with some thickness, has that YS “house” taste I find in a
lot of YS teas. Not much bitterness, very yin and cold. After –taste a little
sour, likely needs some heat/humidity. Might be better down the line after it settles more.
Beta
Young tea but with some browning, small leaves, fragrant in the pouch. Decent
thickness to the pour. This tea is more to my taste with darker notes of aged
oak cask along with the fruity floral. More yang than Alpha sample. Warm, autumn
peppery spices going down the throat. A bit of euphoric stoner qi in the face
and torso, making me want to guzzle the way Menghai tuos do. Still very sweet,
warm mead, some house flavor.
Nothing
burly I’d want to age but a pleasant drink for people who like brandy, cognac
or spiced rum and a fuller profile in a young tea they can drink now. Hell, yeah.
Wasn’t gonna binge drink but I think I will.
Gamma
Green,
Menghai-ish aroma. Tippy, small plantation leaves. The sample consists of loose
tea and a chunk that resembles a mini-cake. Third pour a bit thicker. Finally, we
have a tea which is somewhat bitter. Some throat feel. Not bad, but nothing
special.
Overall
I am finding a disturbing lack of decent bitterness in the teas thus far,
despite how green and young as they are.
Delta
Sidling
up to the bar, can I get some puerh already? It is one of those days, life is a
miserable affair and certainly not worth living and I need tea to make it all
better. Days like today are why God made dirty tuos, the back alley tavern
beverage of choice for the puerh snifter, this western puerh drinker, I am such
a stereotype and caricature of everything I come from, preferring the heights
of heaven and depths of hell even in my beverages while eschewing the mildly
pleasant middle. Aristotle shakes a crooked finger at people like me, a nice
way to put it, because the thinnest veneer of schooling lies between me, as I
am now, and the bar brawler that nature evolved me to be.
This
one has dark greenish black leaves, and smells of YS house teas. First two
steeps show a touch of pink amber in the yellowish brew. Very pretty.
Floral/fruity reminds me of the Alpha sample. I let it sit too long cooling.
The cup then tastes sour. I have not had a single lick of food touch my palate
yet today. Next…
Epsilon
This
sample has green/black loose leaves, no chunks. I brew up 7g/100 ml and this is
almost flavorless. Pushed with 80 ml water yields a more balanced and nicely
bitter result that coats the tongue and provides a fast huigan.
Otherwise the
experience is the same one note I find in most of the other samples, a mild
fruity floral, all top note. The huigan reasserts in the throat ten minutes
after the last sip, so double huigan, an initial one upon sipping and then
another shortly afterward. Very clean tea overall, no storage notes perhaps
because the tea is still young. Despite the promising start, the tea is cashed
around steep 5, the loose leaves of course will give out sooner than a chunk.
The session is like a highly anticipated erotic moment that finishes all too
quickly.
Zeta
This
sample comes in a large mylar bag, the kind that Yunnan Sourcing once used for
samples with a purchase but now buyers must pay for these. The bag contains
large chunks of…shou. The shou appears to be on the young side, by the looks of
it. I drink less shou now than I once did, and I prefer it older than ten
years. I also use less leaf than I used to. But I will momma-up and donate the
gut for today. Also, I must switch teapots from a sheng-dedicated clay and
choose a thick porcelain to generate enough heat to separate the rather
compressed sample.
The
tea brews up dark brown, and thicker with each steeping. I like it, this is a
rather good shou, with a traditional Menghai factory flavor of soil, wood, vanilla,
root beer, yeast bread, very tangy and lively. Some bitterness left shows some
potential for age. This will one day get the sort of plummy flavor old shou
tuos and bricks do at fifteen years, but likely to brew a lot longer. Right now
the pile flavor is still very heavy in the tea. I take to the tea like a
diabetic to a box of chocolates, my brain quickly forgetting any idea of caution
on my gut. I feel a presence in the throat from the tea and a contented
happiness flows.
Last
year I bought a Year of the Goat shou cake from YS, and it is too young to
drink now but I wonder if this sample is the same recipe, one of the Chinese
year shous. If so, I will be happy I bought Goat. The sample is shou for days,
brews a long time. I let water sit in the teapot to form a thick cough syrup and the tea leaves are nowhere
near done after six steepings, and can easily be boiled when they fade. One thing
in favor of this tea, the flavor is similar to factory shou but so much more
potent, a reminder to myself that Yunnan Sourcing, Crimson Lotus, or white2tea house
shou puerh are a good value because the tea leaves are much stronger than
traditional factory recipes, so I can use less tea and brew them longer.
Final
Thoughts
A big
thank you to Mattcha and also Yunnan Sourcing for the blind tasting experience.
Overall,
with the exception of Beta, the sheng puerh teas have a similar flavor profile
to other Yunnan Sourcing sheng puerh teas I have tasted in the past, and similar
to the two or three I already own. If I intended to buy more YS sheng
productions, the main factor for me is price. The year or name on the tea
honestly will not matter much. I suggest to buyers looking at YS sheng
productions to compare years for prices, the same teas year over year are
likely to taste similar so whichever one costs less will be the best value. Beta
is a tea I might consider as it stood out from the others with a fuller profile,
deeper notes. The shou is good, but if it is a yearly production like Goat I
will stay with what I own.
I
also am aware of personal subjective biases. These teas are clean and nice drinkers,
but I want unique teas, something new or different than what I own. I already
own plenty of drinkers. Nowadays I tend to look for very strong tea, either a
strong burly and bitter tea, or intense mouth, throat feel, body effects, or
qi. Or I am looking for storage and fine aging. This means I might not be the
best person to try these teas. Someone new to puerh might offer a fresh
perspective, and the teas are clean enough, and mild enough, to recommend them
to anyone new to sheng puerh.
After Note
Since posting the above, I have now read some of the other blogger notes, and there seems to have been an expectation to either guess the region or production. I assume that many YS productions are blends, so it did not occur to me to try and guess where the leaves are from. And I am not familiar with the entire YS line, and thus not in a position to guess specific teas. Hopefully what I wrote will suffice.
After Note
Since posting the above, I have now read some of the other blogger notes, and there seems to have been an expectation to either guess the region or production. I assume that many YS productions are blends, so it did not occur to me to try and guess where the leaves are from. And I am not familiar with the entire YS line, and thus not in a position to guess specific teas. Hopefully what I wrote will suffice.
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