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2007 Liming Factory "Golden Peacock Qi zi Bingcha" |
Here is a tea I bought last spring. Back when I purchased
the 2005 Yellow Mark from Yunnan Sourcing, I needed $7 more to qualify for free
shipping, which amply justifies adding another $31 beeng to the order. The
Liming factory located in the Menghai region is known as a plantation tea
factory, and the reputation for quality tea declined somewhat among collectors
after 2004, I suppose a rumor stemming from the overpicking in the years that
followed. Yet I cannot help but wonder if such a rumor is premature, after all
any tea produced over the past decade or so is still a young tea. Can we decide
now and forever that a factory produces lesser quality tea? Maybe we need
several decades to make such a determination.
This 2007 Golden Peacock refers to a tea which has more buds
in it than usual. Back in the early 2000s, farmers had trouble selling their
puerh leaves apart from just tea buds, they got paid only for the buds. The
surface of the cake shows a generous sprinkling, though not so much on the
underside, rather typical of a factory offering in a lower price range. Yet
today a bud tea may price for more new, given all the puerh hype going on. The
wrapper bears a blue 2007 date stamp on the back. Alas, just within the past few days the price of this tea increased
on the US site to $34, and
remains $32 on the China site. I was hoping Mr. Wilson would not notice the US site tea cost $1 less, but he caught it. The tea is still in the budget price range, however.
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Nice clean storage. |
The cake underwent nearly a decade in Guangdong storage
which is good news for people who want a little moister aging, but the tea
aired for three months in my possession has no storage odors and qualifies
easily for Guangdong “dry” storage classification. The heat and humidity are just
enough to loosen the edges of this machine-pressed cake and allow some tea to
collect inside the wrapper. This is definitely one tough long-haul production,
despite ten years in Guangdong storage the beeng still appears rather green to
me. I keep my expectations low for a budget tea.
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Surface shows lots of buds. |
I brew 8g in 80-100 ml, mostly I collected up the loose
leaves from the wrapper and pried a few loose leaves off the edge of the beeng.
When you find a lot of loose tea in a beeng, sometimes it is best to just scoop
all that out, dump the dust clean off the wrapper and re-wrap for storage. This
tea makes a good sample for tasting but loose leaves will give off everything
they have early on. Indeed I am rewarded with a hefty and bitter drink.
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Underside not quite so pretty, but ok. |
A Menghai production like this has the whiskey barrel
profile, with strong bitterness, sour mash, aged oak barrel, caramel and a bit
of incense. This profile is good for people who do not want any floral bizness
in their puerh. We rest assured that we have a traditional Menghai beeng for
our money, and rather clean with not much char. I see a bit of cloudiness from
what appears to be bud fuzz small enough to go through my fine mesh strainer.
One steeping removes all that to reveal a clean drink.
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First steeping showing the storage color and clarity. |
The storage shows a bit of turning with a red ring to the
cup, so I know this tea is fermenting quite nicely. One cannot really drink
this tea fully as it is in the middle of fermentation and tastes like half done
whiskey mash but the oak barrel is already developing. I get a bit of tea qi
behind the eyes and a relaxed body feeling, nothing very intense but I mostly
taste and swallow maybe twice with each cup, just to see where the tea goes.
Again, this is not really a drinker right now. I stopped at six steepings with
the tea hardly opened up yet. The leaves show a long way to go before steeping
out, but I am satisfied with the strength and the developing fermentation. Also, the brew thickened noticeably after the third steep.
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Third steeping shows a nice clarity. |
We are fortunate to find budget teas like this in the Yunnan
Sourcing catalog, of course it is a product of the Liming tea factory and not a
Yunnan Sourcing production. Thus we know nothing about any testing for
pesticides, and I doubt Liming really tested anything. Yet I recall a couple of
years ago white2tea’s Liming 7542 from the late 1990s, now that tea retailed
for over $1100 a beeng and sold out too. Nobody who bought that tea needed to
know more. The college student of today should snap this Liming up for the
future and then can say “I bought this for 30-odd back in the day.” When a
brand new Menghai 7542 costs $40 to import, we have a somewhat upside-down
market in factory teas.
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Lots of buds, and still fairly green. |
Yes, the discussions go on about pesticides in plantation
teas, mostly by people who surely rely on others for food production and are
not yet out skinning their own muskrats. I always just think to myself well,
some puerh heads with fully outfitted, survivalist tea storage caves are trying
to scare off the new buyers because they want more for themselves. I guess I am
firmly in this camp: more tea in the shop means more for me. After all, I have
a dirt floor in-ground storage garage for when the world ends and I need a tea
to drink on the way out.
It's a good tea and an excellent value. Sorry I had to raise the price a bit... the first case I bought was a little cheaper than the one I got more recently. Your comparison with a new 7542 is very astute... ;-)
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