Long
time readers of this blog may remember the batch of shou I made back in 2015.
Hard to believe three years have passed since I finished that shou. Over the
first year I continued to taste the tea every six months. Later I sent a sample
to a vendor who tried the tea, and sent me more maocha to make another batch. I
have just completed one of these new batches, and still have maocha left over.
The
super exciting part for me is recently trying the first batch again. When shou
is freshly made, the brew will start out a little cloudy, requiring several
steepings to clear. As my first batch is now at the 3-year mark, it shows clear
on the second steeping, rather than on the 8th steep. I also noticed
that the tea now smells like every factory shou I own that is younger than ten
years, it smells like regular shou. In early months, the tea had a musty, funky
smell. All that is now gone, and I cannot tell the difference between this shou
and those I have purchased in the past. Let's review how the tea changed over the past three years.
You can see how cloudy the initial cup was after I finished the shou. I need to steep the tea eight times for it to clear.
Then, at six months, I needed to steep the tea six times for it to clear.
Now today, my shou clears on the second steeping.
My
newest shou turned out a bit less cloudy than the first batch. The maocha is
also different, and this time I do not know anything about the origin of the
maocha. I was also told not to drink the maocha raw, perhaps the tea had some
less than clean processing.
Week 1 of new batch, just starting out. |
Any bacteria in raw maocha from unclean hands or
factory conditions will work itself out during fermentation and years of
resting. In my first batch, I moistened the tea with a premium Yiwu brew,
rather than just plain water, and that also accounted for some of the initial
clouding, and I can taste a lively-in-the-tongue bitter edge to my first batch,
indicating more aging potential.
After a few weeks, I could have stopped but felt the tea was a bit uneven due to some spots drying faster than others. |
For my current batch, I just used plain water
to moisten the tea leaves. I do not want to drink my current batch yet, for it
is too fresh and musty, but I brewed up a couple of steepings, and here is the
tea after two rinses, with two brews poured in the same cup.
Obviously I did
not want to use much leaf just for the sake of photos, so I need to pour two
steeps together to get a cup for the picture.
Today's first two brews of the tea in the last photo above. Not bad looking at all! Smells musty though, so I do not want to drink it yet, just a smell check. |
I
have learned so much about puerh tea from this process of making shou and
resting it, which gives me the most important reason to make shou.
Deepen
my understanding of puerh tea aging and fermentation.
This
is the best reason to make shou. I get to smell this stuff and experience how
funky and almost nasty smelling puerh tea is during the shou making process. I
get to see what happens when I spray or pour more water into the batch to
continue adding moisture, the water seeps a little liquid to the bottom of my
crock bowl and I can check the color. This tells me when the shou is done, the liquid
goes from a dirty yellow to reddish brown. I can watch tiny dots of white mold
form on the tea. I turn my tea daily and work in the moisture evenly.
As
the tea rests, I can check every six months to see how the rested tea tastes
and looks in the cup. I can see how my first batch of shou tea clears first
around steep eight, then six, and now just two steepings. My vendor friend
assured me the tea would clear, and this has indeed happened.
Using
up sheng I probably will not drink.
Making
shou is a great idea for tea that I doubt I will drink and probably should not
try to pawn off on someone else. Most of us have at least some tea that we
either wish we had not bought, or maybe our tastes have changed. A bitter,
smoky puerh in particular will make a decent shou. You can always steam apart a
cake or brick to use in a shou batch.
Earning
myself a decent drink after a few years!
This
is the very last reason to make shou. Who cares if I drink it or not? The point
is, I got my head further into the puerh I enjoy so much. I really do not think
I can decide on the “quality” of my shou until the tea rests, and even now shou
continues to improve with more years. I have learned that shou older than 10
years is the best. Hard to say if I will last out my current batch of shou, but
I am okay with that.
Anyone
can make shou. I really believe using some sort of crockery, glazed stoneware,
makes the most sense for shou. We have all seen photos of shou on a cement
factory floor covered with a browned tarp, so we know just about anything goes
for shou. A small amount of tea can ferment in a glass jar with a cloth over
the top. The main ingredients aside from the tea are water and heat.
I
find the heat the tricky part. Right now we have very frigid cold weather, so
my cast iron radiators are hot all the time and this provides the heat under
the crock bowl. In Yunnan, the weather is warm and muggy during the summer. For
me, summer is not ideal because we get high heat and then cooldowns for a day
or two, I cannot guarantee the conditions for the 2-10 weeks required for
making shou. In winter, my radiators provide the conditions much more reliably.
Aside
from the heat, we also have dry air. I run a humidifier and use pans of water
on each radiator. Despite this, my shou batch will dry out within a few days
and so I need to check it. I also need to turn the tea and mix it, I usually
find some dry spots and some wet spots. In the crock bowl, the tea on the
bottom can compost quickly. Turning the tea prevents that. I use plastic gloves
on my hands to turn the tea.
If
you start a shou batch and do not turn it often enough, you will first notice
blue/green mold and affected tea must be tossed. Dots of white mold are normal
and okay, and these will seem to disappear when turning the tea. Turning the
tea and airing it a little daily, or as often as I want to, allows me to look
and smell the situation. Shou smells funky and musty, all that will eventually
clear out.
Remember,
if you make your own shou, taste and spit for the first six months. Your sense
of smell will tell you when to drink it.
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